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Free Tools

Run your own numbers before anyone calls you.

Three quick tools to help you think like an owner: what your home might be worth, how much you can actually afford, and how much wealth buying builds versus renting. No logins, no spam. When you want the real, address-specific version, I am one message away.

Tool 01

What's my home worth?

Enter your address and a few details and you'll get a ballpark range based on current price-per-square-foot in your area, adjusted for condition. It's a starting point, not a substitute for a real comparative market analysis. For that, I pull live MLS comps on your exact block and walk the numbers with you.

Your Property
Auto-fills by area. Adjust if you know your block runs higher or lower.
Counted at about half value. MLS often excludes this, which is where hidden value hides.
Condition
Be honest here. Buyers price condition, and so do appraisers.
Estimated Value Range
$0–$0
Midpoint $0
Above-grade value$0
Finished basement value$0
Condition adjustment0%
Per sq ft used$0

This is an estimate only. Many factors move a home's real value, most of all recent nearby comparable sales, lot, layout, upgrades, and current demand. The only way to know is a true CMA.

Leave one and I'll run real comps on your exact address.

Tool 02

How much home can I actually afford?

Lenders don't approve you on price, they approve you on debt-to-income. Slide your down payment, add your income and monthly debts, and see your real DTI. Buying a place with a rentable unit? Toggle house hacking and watch what counting that rent does to your numbers.

Your Income & Debts
Car, student loans, minimum credit card, child support. Not rent or utilities.
The Home & Loan
10%
6.5%
Back-End DTI
0%
 
Front-end DTI (housing only)0%
Proposed housing payment$0
Qualifying monthly income$0
Other monthly debts$0
Room left at 43% DTI$0
≈ Max price at 43% DTI$0

Want a real pre-approval game plan? Leave a way to reach you.

Estimates only, not a loan approval or commitment to lend. Conventional loans often target a front-end DTI near 28% and back-end near 36%, but many programs (FHA, VA, and manually underwritten loans) approve back-end DTI up to roughly 43–50% with strong credit and reserves. PMI auto-applies under 20% down on a primary home. The max-price figure holds your taxes, insurance, and HOA constant, so treat it as a ballpark. Your lender's number is the one that counts.

Tool 03

Rent vs buy: where does the net worth go?

Renting isn't throwing money away and buying isn't always smarter, it depends on the numbers and the time horizon. This compares both fairly: the buyer builds equity through appreciation and paydown, the renter invests the down payment and any monthly savings. See who comes out ahead, and by how much.

If You Buy
20%
6.5%
If You Rent
What the renter earns investing the down payment plus any monthly savings.
Time Horizon
7 yrs
After 7 years, buying builds
$0
more net worth than renting
Buyer: home value$0
Buyer: loan balance left$0
Buyer: equity (after selling costs)$0
Buyer: side investments$0
Buyer net worth$0
Renter net worth (invested)$0
Buying's IRR vs renting0%

Want me to run this for a specific home? Leave a contact.

Estimates only, not financial advice. The model simulates each month: the buyer's equity grows through appreciation and principal paydown, and the renter invests the down payment plus closing costs and any month where renting is cheaper than owning. When owning is cheaper, the buyer invests the difference instead, so it's an apples-to-apples comparison. Real outcomes depend on markets, taxes, and how long you stay. Buying usually wins the longer you hold.